Aluminum, Steel, Cast iron, Stainless etc all repaired with ease. Stuff I used in the video: Spring loaded center punch: https://amzn.to/3FLO6Ex Basic SAE Tap : https://amzn.to/3lu7DCQ Basic Metric Taps : https://amzn.to/3z3NYfS Loctite stick RED High Strength: https://amzn.to/408E7kU better than liquid Hand sharpen drill bits: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88-IbTTCHoI After Thoughts about the Video: Yes, my eyeballomometer is off and I drilled the top hole slightly crooked. There are plenty of techniques I would have utilized if this was a real repair. I do think this is stronger and a more reliable repair than the Heli-coil spring. Use a standard taper tap too allow the repair sleeve to lock in on a blind and thru hole. Grade 5, 8 and higher bolts start to get nearly impossible to hand tap and there's a chance you'll break a tap or start to remove the repair insert. Grade 2 is generally far stronger than the material your threading into. Loctite primer: mainly just speeds up curing time but isn't necessary. Loctite also isn't 100% necessary, it just adds reassurance. I put approx 8 dimples on each bolt but you can do even more if you're concerned there wasn't enough locking force when you screw it in. SUPPORT THE CHANNEL or support the SHOP DOG's treat addiction: Buy Ginger a new bone: https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=NS699E56WTYHL www.instagram.com/sixtyfiveford/ www.facebook.com/sixtyfiveford/ Ginger Birthday wish list https://www.amazon.com/registries/birthday/1JJFHIQRBY14H/guest-view 65 Ford 65Ford SFF